Question 1

Can my floor be sanded?

Accepted Answer

That depends on the floor build-up, the condition of the wood and the remaining thickness of the top layer. Responsible sanding usually requires a top layer of at least 3 mm. The thickness is sometimes visible at a threshold, a pipe opening or along the edge of the floor. Based on photos or an inspection, we assess what is possible.

Question 2

How many millimetres of the top layer are removed during sanding?

Accepted Answer

On average, sanding during a renovation removes roughly 0.5 to 1 mm of the top layer. The exact amount depends on how level the floor is, the existing finish and the depth of any damage. We never sand away more than is technically necessary.

Question 3

What is a V-groove?

Accepted Answer

A V-groove is a bevelled seam between floorboards, usually along the long sides of the plank. Two bevelled edges next to each other form a groove shaped like the letter V.

Question 4

Why do you sand the V-grooves?

Accepted Answer

Dirt and residue from an earlier finish can collect in V-grooves. Where the construction and depth allow, we work the grooves to remove as much of the existing finish as possible and make the end result more even. Deep grooves cannot always be sanded completely bare.

Question 5

What does the “filling and punching” service mean?

Accepted Answer

In older parquet floors, fixing points or nail heads can become visible. Punching gently drives protruding heads deeper into the wood. Filling fills suitable holes and small openings. The filler can remain visible after finishing and may react differently from the surrounding wood.

Question 6

Do you also sand existing skirting boards?

Accepted Answer

Existing skirting boards are usually not sanded along or refinished. We do not refit them: existing skirting boards can stay in place or be removed beforehand. We can also supply and fit new flat trims, MDF skirting boards or solid wood skirting boards.

Question 7

Is a lot of dust released during sanding?

Accepted Answer

Our professional sanding machines have direct dust extraction, which greatly reduces the amount of dust. Completely dust-free sanding is not possible, however. We therefore advise removing vulnerable items and closing off adjoining rooms where needed.

Question 8

How often can a wooden floor be sanded?

Accepted Answer

That depends on the floor construction and the thickness of the top layer. A solid parquet floor can often be sanded several times; an engineered floor usually one to three times. During the inspection we assess what your floor allows.

Question 9

What does parquet sanding cost?

Accepted Answer

The cost depends on the number of m², the condition of the floor and the finish you choose. With the configurator you receive an indicative price within one minute.

Question 10

Which treatments are available?

Accepted Answer

Depending on the floor and the look you want, options include oil, hardwax and lacquer systems. Oil and hardwax emphasise the natural wood texture, while lacquer forms a protective layer on top of the wood. During the personal consultation we discuss which treatment suits your floor, use and maintenance preference.

Question 11

Which treatment is right for my floor?

Accepted Answer

That depends on the wood species, the existing floor build-up, the look you want, how intensively the floor is used and how much maintenance you want to carry out. Not every colour or treatment gives the same result on every wood species. That is why we assess the floor and your wishes before we advise.

Question 12

How many coats do you apply?

Accepted Answer

The number of coats depends on the chosen product and treatment system. Oil and hardwax are usually applied as one complete system. A lacquer finish generally consists of two coats, for example a base coat and a top coat. For more intensive use, an additional lacquer coat can be chosen where it fits within the system.

Question 13

Which colours can I choose from?

Accepted Answer

For a coloured finish you can choose from 18 colours. The final result is influenced by the wood species, grading, incidence of light and any earlier treatment. For the most predictable result, we apply colour treatments almost exclusively to oak floors. During the personal consultation we select suitable colours. On the day of the work, up to three test patches can be applied to your own floor, so you can see how the chosen shades react on your wood.

Question 14

What is the difference between oil and lacquer?

Accepted Answer

Oil penetrates the wood and keeps the texture visible and tangible. The look is natural and matt, but it requires periodic maintenance. Lacquer forms a protective layer on the wood and is generally easier to maintain. The best choice depends on the look you want and the way the floor is used.

Question 15

Is a lacquered floor suitable for families and pets?

Accepted Answer

Yes, a lacquered floor is often chosen for households with children or pets. In most cases we recommend a Lak Plus finish because of its strong protection and limited maintenance. The lacquer forms a protective layer and is relatively easy to clean. Even a lacquered floor can still pick up scratches, dents and signs of use, however, particularly from sand, sharp claws, moisture and furniture being dragged across it.

Question 16

Which gloss levels are possible?

Accepted Answer

Depending on the chosen lacquer system, various gloss levels are possible, from gloss and satin-matt to matt and ultra-matt invisible. The wood species and the substrate influence the final appearance. During the consultation we compare which finish suits the look you want.

Question 17

Can a lacquered floor be finished in colour?

Accepted Answer

Yes. For a coloured, lacquered floor we first apply a colour treatment and then finish it with one or two protective lacquer coats. There are 18 colours available. For the most predictable result, we apply this treatment almost exclusively to oak floors.

Question 18

How do I maintain a lacquered floor?

Accepted Answer

Regularly remove sand and loose dirt with a soft vacuum nozzle and clean the floor slightly damp with a maintenance product suited to the lacquer system used. Do not use aggressive all-purpose cleaners, abrasives or excessive water. On completion we advise which maintenance products suit your floor.

Question 19

How long before a lacquered floor can be used again?

Accepted Answer

A lacquered floor can usually take light use after 24 hours and reaches its full hardness after about two weeks. While it is curing, avoid moisture, intensive use and covering it with rugs or vapour-tight materials. Temperature and humidity can affect the drying time.

Question 20

Can a lacquered floor be touched up if it gets damaged?

Accepted Answer

That depends on the nature and depth of the damage. Minor signs of use often need no immediate treatment. Local lacquer repair can leave a difference in gloss or colour, so with larger or deeper damage a wider area or the whole floor sometimes has to be treated again.

Question 21

Does a matt or invisible lacquer really stay matt?

Accepted Answer

A matt or invisible lacquer keeps a far more matt appearance than a gloss lacquer. Through use, cleaning and local wear, a natural lived-in look does develop over time. With the right maintenance products you prevent unsuitable cleaners from changing the appearance unnecessarily.

Question 22

Is lacquer suitable for underfloor heating?

Accepted Answer

Yes, a suitable water-based lacquer system can be applied to a wooden floor with underfloor heating. The floor build-up, wood species, temperature setting and the heating-up protocol must be suitable for it. Large, rapid temperature swings can cause the wood to move.

Question 23

Which lacquer do you recommend most?

Accepted Answer

That varies from floor to floor and depends on your living preferences. Invisible lacquer suits a light, modern look, while a matt or satin-matt lacquer emphasises the natural colour of the wood more. How intensively the floor is used, the wood species and the maintenance you want also factor into the advice.

Question 24

How often does an oiled floor need maintenance?

Accepted Answer

That depends on how intensively the floor is used, cleaning and local wear. In many homes, maintenance with a suitable maintenance oil about once a year is enough. Intensively used areas may need attention sooner, while quietly used rooms can often go longer without a new maintenance coat.

Question 25

Can I carry out the maintenance myself?

Accepted Answer

You can carry out much of the regular maintenance on an oiled floor yourself, provided you use the right product and follow the accompanying instructions. The floor must be cleaned thoroughly beforehand and the maintenance oil applied thinly and evenly. If in doubt, we advise testing an inconspicuous spot first.

Question 26

Is oil suitable for a kitchen?

Accepted Answer

An oiled floor can be used in a kitchen, but it needs extra attention there. Wipe up spills quickly and maintain intensively used areas in good time. When ease of maintenance and protection are your main priorities, a lacquer finish may be a better fit.

Question 27

How long before an oiled floor can be used again?

Accepted Answer

An oiled floor can usually take light use after 24 hours and is fully cured after about two weeks. During this period avoid moisture, intensive use, wet cleaning and putting rugs back down. The exact drying time also depends on temperature and ventilation.

Question 28

Can I still switch to lacquer later?

Accepted Answer

Yes, at a future renovation an oiled floor can often be converted to a lacquer finish. The reverse is usually possible too. The existing finish has to be removed completely and the floor must still have enough sandable top layer. We assess this beforehand.

Question 29

What if a scratch or stain appears?

Accepted Answer

One advantage of oil is that many small areas of damage can be treated locally. Whether local cleaning, touching up or sanding is enough depends on the depth and cause. Local repair can leave some colour difference. Feel free to send clear photos and we will advise on the options.

Question 30

Does my floor really get more golden?

Accepted Answer

A natural finish usually deepens the wood's own colour and can make the floor look warmer. On top of that, wood changes under the influence of daylight, use and age. If you want the floor to look as light and untreated as possible, the Modern look may suit you better.

Question 31

What is the difference between natural oil and natural lacquer?

Accepted Answer

Both can emphasise the natural colour of the wood. Oil penetrates the wood, keeps the texture tangible and requires periodic maintenance. Lacquer forms a protective layer and is generally easier in day-to-day maintenance. The gloss level and the chosen system influence the final look.

Question 32

How long does classic stay beautiful?

Accepted Answer

That depends on how intensively the floor is used, the chosen treatment and maintenance. With suitable cleaning and maintenance products, the finish can last a long time. Once local wear appears, a maintenance or refresh treatment can often improve both the protection and the look.

Question 33

What maintenance does a classic floor need?

Accepted Answer

That is determined by the finish. Alongside regular cleaning, an oiled floor needs periodic maintenance with maintenance oil. You clean a lacquered floor with a product suited to the lacquer system used, and it may need a refresh treatment in time. On completion you receive tailored maintenance advice.

Question 34

Can I still choose colour later?

Accepted Answer

Yes, at a future renovation the floor can often be sanded again and finished in colour. Beforehand we assess the wood species, the remaining top layer and any old finish residue. For a predictable colour result, we work almost exclusively with oak floors.

Question 35

Can I see colour samples on my own floor?

Accepted Answer

Yes. On the day of the work, up to three test patches can be applied to your own floor. That shows you how the selected colours react on your wood and to the light. A test patch remains an indication: natural differences between floorboards stay visible.

Question 36

Does every colour work on my floor?

Accepted Answer

No. Wood species, grain, grading and any earlier treatment all influence how pigment is absorbed. For the most predictable result, we carry out colour treatments almost exclusively on oak floors. Pine, beech and tropical wood species can react differently or unevenly.

Question 37

Is it safe to choose dark?

Accepted Answer

Certainly, provided the wood species and floor are suitable. A dark colour can give a strong, luxurious look. Bear in mind that dust, light scratches, wear and differences in wood texture often show up more than with a mid-tone.

Question 38

What is the difference between coloured oil and coloured lacquer?

Accepted Answer

With coloured oil, pigments are absorbed into the wood and the texture stays visible and tangible. For a coloured lacquered floor we first apply the colour and then seal it with one or two protective lacquer coats. The main differences are therefore in feel, maintenance and protection.

Question 39

Does the colour fade over the years?

Accepted Answer

Colour and wood can change gradually under the influence of daylight, use, cleaning and wear. How much varies by shade and by room. Good sun protection and suitable maintenance help limit large local differences. At a future renovation the floor can be finished in colour again.

Question 40

Does the floor really stay light, or does it yellow anyway?

Accepted Answer

A modern oil or lacquer finish limits the warm discolouration and keeps the floor as light as possible. Wood remains a natural product, though, and will change subtly under the influence of light and age. On oak, this light look is usually the most predictable.

Question 41

What is the difference between light oil and invisible lacquer?

Accepted Answer

Both are intended to create a light, natural look. Light oil penetrates the wood and keeps the texture tangible, but requires periodic maintenance. Invisible lacquer forms an ultra-matt protective layer and is generally easier to maintain.

Question 42

Is modern also good for busy rooms like kitchens?

Accepted Answer

Yes, provided the chosen finish matches how intensively the floor is used. For a busy kitchen we usually recommend an invisible lacquer, because it forms a protective layer and needs less periodic maintenance than light oil. Spills should always be wiped up quickly.

Question 43

Do I not get a new look right away just by sanding?

Accepted Answer

After sanding, wood looks light and untreated. Without a suitable finish, though, it is insufficiently protected and the colour will change under the influence of a finish, light and use. A modern oil or invisible lacquer is developed to come as close as possible to the freshly sanded look.

Question 44

Can I still choose colour or classic later?

Accepted Answer

Yes, at a future renovation the floor can often be sanded again and finished differently. This depends on the remaining thickness of the top layer, the wood species and the condition of the floor. For a colour treatment we also assess whether the wood is suitable.

Question 45

Can every parquet floor be repaired?

Accepted Answer

Many types of parquet damage can be repaired locally. What is possible depends partly on the floor build-up, wood species, dimensions, remaining wear layer, subfloor and cause of the damage. Based on photos we give an initial assessment; sometimes an on-site inspection is needed.

Question 46

Does the whole floor have to be sanded after the repair?

Accepted Answer

In most cases we recommend it. Replacement wood can differ in colour, gloss and texture. By sanding the entire floor and refinishing it, these differences are kept to a minimum. A local-only repair is sometimes possible, but the repair spot can then remain visible.

Question 47

How do you find matching wood?

Accepted Answer

Where possible we use spare material that belongs to the floor. If that is not available, we can sometimes reuse wood from a barely visible spot and fit replacement material there. Otherwise we search through our network for wood that matches as closely as possible in species, size, grading and appearance.

Question 48

What does parquet repair cost?

Accepted Answer

The price depends on the extent and cause of the damage, the laying pattern, the availability of matching wood and the finishing required afterwards. Based on your photos we give an initial indication within 1 business day. A final quote may require an inspection.

Question 49

How long does a repair take?

Accepted Answer

The work duration depends on the extent of the repair, the available wood, the drying time of the materials used and the chosen oil or lacquer finish. After assessing the floor we provide a specific schedule and explain when the floor can carefully, and then fully, bear load again.

Question 50

Is the repair covered by insurance?

Accepted Answer

That depends on the cause of the damage, the policy terms and the assessment by your insurer. We can supply a clear quote or specification of the repair work. The application and the decision on reimbursement run through you and the insurer.

Question 51

Do you also supply the floor itself?

Accepted Answer

Yes. You can combine a floor from our webshop with the installation service, so that delivery and installation are coordinated. Bought a floor elsewhere? Then we assess beforehand whether the product, the quantity and the technical specifications are suitable for the room and the desired laying method.

Question 52

Do I need an underlay?

Accepted Answer

That depends on the type of floor, the substrate and the laying method. A floating floor usually needs a suitable underlay, while a glued floor places different demands on the base. Acoustic requirements and underfloor heating can also influence the choice.

Question 53

Do you work with underfloor heating?

Accepted Answer

Yes, many wooden floors, laminate floors and vinyl floors can be combined with underfloor heating. The product, the floor build-up, the laying method and the total thermal resistance must be suitable for it. We assess this case by case and take the manufacturer's guidelines into account.

Question 54

How long does installation take?

Accepted Answer

The duration depends on the number of square metres, the material, the laying pattern, the condition of the substrate and the finishing required. A click floor is usually quicker to install than a glued floor or a pattern floor. After assessing the situation, you receive a tailored schedule.

Question 55

Can you remove the old floor?

Accepted Answer

In many cases we can include removing and disposing of the existing floor. The options and costs depend on the type of floor, the fixing, the substrate and the amount of material. This is assessed beforehand and included as a separate item in the quote.

Question 56

Do you also fit skirting boards?

Accepted Answer

Yes, fitting new skirting boards can be included as an additional finishing step. We discuss which type, profile and size suit the floor and the room. We do not refit existing skirting boards.

Question 57

Can I reuse my existing skirting boards?

Accepted Answer

We do not refit existing skirting boards. They can stay in place during the work if you prefer, but that does carry a risk of damage. Sanding along the edges of the floor in particular can damage the skirting. If that risk is unwelcome, we advise removing the skirting beforehand and replacing it afterwards.

Question 58

Can I order skirting boards without sanding?

Accepted Answer

We mainly offer supplying and fitting skirting boards as part of a sanding or installation project. Would you like skirting boards fitted only? Then please get in touch, so we can assess whether this fits within our work and schedule.

Question 59

Which skirting board suits which floor?

Accepted Answer

That mainly depends on the look you want. A flat trim looks subtle, MDF offers plenty of choice in height, profile and colour, and solid wood forms a natural combination with parquet. During the consultation we look at what suits your floor, walls and interior.

Question 60

How tall should a skirting board be?

Accepted Answer

The right height depends on the ceiling height, the dimensions of the room and the interior style. A skirting board of 7 or 9 cm is a popular size. Taller skirting boards give the finish more emphasis, while a low trim looks more subtle.

Question 61

Do you also provide sealant edges or finishing?

Accepted Answer

Yes, if agreed we can finish the join between skirting board and wall with a caulk line. This makes small irregularities along the wall less visible. We only caulk against white or yet-to-be-painted walls; we do not caulk against coloured walls, because that carries a higher risk of visible caulk residue, discolouration or damage to the wall finish. MDF skirting boards can be fixed with suitable mounting adhesive. We include the work and any extra cost in the quote.

Question 62

How are MDF skirting boards fitted?

Accepted Answer

We fit MDF skirting boards tight against the wall. On external corners we mitre the boards, so the corner runs on neatly. Internal corners are butted straight against each other. This gives a tight, practical finish and avoids needlessly fragile mitred joints in the internal corners.

Question 63

How long does fitting skirting boards take?

Accepted Answer

The time needed depends on the number of linear metres, the type of skirting board, the condition of the walls and the number of corners, doors and other junctions. When skirting board fitting is part of the sanding or installation service, we include it in the overall schedule.

Question 64

Does the whole room need to be empty?

Accepted Answer

Yes. Before we start, the entire floor must be clear of furniture and loose items. Also remove curtains to about 30 cm above the floor, low-hanging objects, draught excluders and anything else that could get in the way of the work. Sockets must remain accessible. Cover vulnerable walls up to about 30 cm high and, where skirting boards are present, keep roughly 10 to 15 cm of working space clear. Also make sure enough power capacity is available; if necessary, switch off solar panel inverters temporarily. The work instructions with your order set out the preparations that apply to your situation.

Frequently asked questions

Sanding

Treatments

Colour & look

Repair

Installation

Skirting boards

The work

Maintenance

General

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